Tequila All Stars by Tomas Estes

by  Phil Bayly on Fri Mar 7, 2008
    The bar is in a kind of grotto or cave, one where pirates may have loved hiding and drinking in. There is laughter and merriment rising along with the music of Bob Dylan and the Rolling Stones, modern-day pirates. It is warm late October 2007 on the private island of the Ricard family [of Pernod Ricard, currently the second largest drinks company in the world].

    In the bar is a celebration of the end of a successful three-day, four-night gathering, “The Tequila All Stars” show. This was an activity hosted by the International Bar Business School run by Dave Steward on the island. Eleven star tequileros [tequila producers] were present from Mexico as well as bartenders and bar owners from Australia, the U.S., France and the U.K.

    The subject of the show was tequila and a main theme that came up again and again was the premiumisation of tequila in the market. It is understood that this is a global phenomenon common to all spirits categories. It was shown that vodka for example has experienced notable premiumisation in terms of ‘new image’ brands with packaging and pricing to match the image.

    Tequila is experiencing the same dynamic with perhaps something unique, an actual raising of quality of what’s in the bottle. In the last 15-20 years the image of the entire tequila category has been moving steadily upwards. This is due to the focus of attention on the parts of the tequileros on making their tequilas to suit contemporary world-class tastes.  Standards of production are being studied and as a result the tequilas produced are of a higher quality with more taste appeal. Packaging and presentation has followed suit.




    Tequila_Allstar_discuss_SMThis premiumisation trend is affecting the entire category in that the newer, higher quality tequila expressions are changing the earlier tequila’s images by association. The drinking public sees that tequila is not only the spirit that we used to experience. It is now something much more, reaching a quality and respectability that resembles that of fine Cognac and high class Single Malt Scotch Whiskey.

    Does this mean that tequila has lost its “bad boy” image and status? I for one hope not. This aspect is still there and will remain, but has been joined by this newer generation of upper-end range of tequilas. This expands the versatility and appeal of tequila by light-years and the consumer reaps the benefits.

    Tequila is the fastest growing spirit in the U.S., its largest market. It is also the fastest growing spirit in the U.K. on trade in terms of percentage growth last year according to Nielson. In the Nielson report it was found that on trade sales of vodka after years of growth were flat, and the same for imported whiskey, notably American. Gold rum sales were up by 1%, non-cream liqueurs up 1% and tequila led the figures with a growth rate of 4%. Admittedly, this growth percentage is on a rather small base of sales yet the trend is noteworthy. Statistics show that most of the worldwide growth in tequila sales is led by the premium sector. It is the better made, better presented, better tasting tequilas which are capturing the public’s attention, imagination and sales.


    Some premium tequila products on their way to the U.K. market were shown at the All Star Show. Casa Cuervo, the market leader, exhibited the first bottles in Europe of their Reserva de la Familia Platino. This is a blanco tequila with a stellar pedigree and taste sensation to match. Tequila Casa de Gonzalez is the latest expression of the Gonzalez family who was the creator of Tequila Don Julio. The All Star Show was the first time their new tequila was introduced in Europe. It was also shown and tasted for the first time in London at Café Pacifico on October 22nd along with another ultimate quality tequila arriving soon to the U.K. market, Tequila Ocho. This tequila will be stating the year [millesime] of production and origin of the agaves used to produce the tequila for each bottle. The above gives a premium sense to its tequila by associating it to fine wines.

    Tequila producers look to the U.K. market not so much for sales volumes as for status. Having a tequila in U.K. bars and restaurants that performs well is a jewel in their sales crown. They recognize the high level quality of bar service and products and want their tequilas to be associated with the U.K.’s bar industry premiumisation. Congratulations to the U.K. bar trade for its success in being the best and attracting the best.

    The October 22nd introduction of Casa de los Gonzalez, Tequila Ocho and Calle 23, another high quality tequila attracted a large crowd of prominent bartenders and industry personalities. This large gathering of influential people attests to tequila’s appeal and its ability to stimulate a fun time.

    Charles Vexenat, Theme Magazine’s Bartender of the Year 2007, was lobbying away at how he could get some advance Ocho tequila [its first shipment is not expected until 2008] for a bar which he is opening in Manchester in November of 2007. Tequila is an important spirit for Charles, one he knows well and loves. He is representative of most of the others present on the 22nd. Tequila is for them an edgy, versatile spirit that suits the times. It continues to be “something new” and exciting with all the new brands and innovations coming out. It does not have the stigma of being the older generation’s drink as some other spirits do.

    The aspirations of the tequila makers seem to be paying off. They are capturing the world markets they are after including the U.K. by giving the consumer a true premium product. This means that what is in the bottle delivers a quality experience to the consumer. The proof is in the experience, in the taste, in the fun. Enjoy!
    Phil Bayly

    Phil Bayly

    Phil Bayly has been involved in the growth of the Tequila Industry in Europe and Australia since 1980.

    Based in Sydney, Australia and owner of Café Pacifico Sydney, he has been recognized with various awards for his work with tequila including the first 'Distinctivo T' in the southern hemisphere in 2006.

    More in this category: « My Greatest Moment with Tequila by Tom Estes Tequila Embassy »
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