The Bar is Buzzing by Tom Estes

by  Phil Bayly on Tue Oct 3, 2006
    The bar is buzzing. It is full of energy, excitement and noise. There are three celebrated bartenders working with two bar trainees who are twin brothers from Guadalajara. The place looks like an elegant, louche hideout. There is a charge in the air. I begin to realize that it centers around tequila. The bartenders know my history with the spirit and want to share their enthusiasm with me. The drinks they have created and their excitement are not just for my benefit. This is, for them, an overall fascination with, and appreciation for, tequila.

    One innovative tequila cocktail after another is presented. Each is unique and different, very typical of the city I think. We are at 43 South Moulton, a private club which is representative of the cocktail bar scene happening in London these days. London bartenders are turned on by their profession and are especially inspired and intrigued by tequila. I have found this same energy in many well-known bars in this city.

    Many feel that London is the current capital of cocktail culture. I have heard this from various sources including well-respected American bartenders. London in general is a vibrant place to be. There is an exciting nightlife with many places to enjoy. London restaurants have long since surpassed Paris in terms of quality and appeal.

    Various bar trade magazines encourage, promote and recognize excellence in the industry through their articles and awards. These awards recognize achievement in terms of outstanding performance in the field of bartending. All this stimulates the profession. And this, in turn, attracts quality people to be a part of the bar trade.

    What I found in 43 South Moulton, this enthusiasm for tequila, is common to other celebrated, fashionable London bars. Tequila is the spirit that has captured the imagination of trend-setting bartenders. These bartenders cover a range of nationalities to whom London has become a mecca because of its opportunities and lively lifestyle.

    These bartenders are excited by tequila’s image, its versatility and its continually rising quality. To them this is a spirit which has a largely untapped potential. It is a drink free from the stigma of cognac and blended scotch which are thought of as belonging to the “older generation.”

    Many bartenders have become tequila Ambassadors. They are convinced and are now convincing their public. This is an important step. Many people have a negative memory of tequila. They have consumed poor quality tequila while already being drunk and ended up with regrets. Usually these experiences are not the fault of tequila. The responsibility lies with the drinker.

    Last night I heard the following story from Luca, an Italian bartender who works at La Perla Bar in Covent Garden, London. Recently, a couple happened in and sat at the bar. Noting that the house specialized in tequila, the woman declared, “I don’t want to drink tequila, I drank it once and hated it!” Luca admitted to once having had the same experience. So she started off with a Vanilla Daiquiri and he with a Planter’s Punch.

    Then Luca started chatting to them about tequila, explaining the differences. He tempted them by showing them how good various anejo tequilas smell. They dared to taste a Reserva de la Familia from Casa Cuervo, at Luca’s suggestion. The two of them went on to drink a total of 120 Pounds Sterling worth of a sampling of tequilas.

    As they drank, Luca continued discussing tequila with them. Hearing Luca describing mezcal, with the worm at the bottom of the bottle, the woman realized that it was cheap mezcal, and not tequila, that had been the source of her unpleasant experience.

    Andre, a Ukranian bartender at the same La Perla Bar, told a similar story about a couple spending over one hundred pounds sterling on tequila the week before. Andre is a true tequila Ambassador. He loves to sell tequila and is wildly successful at it.

    I have been doing this kind of tequila work for years in Europe. I am pleased to see that it is paying off. The recent book,Introduction to Tequila: A Refinated Taste, published by the C.R.T. (the tequila regulatory council), offers an insight into the changed attitudes of Mexicans towards their national drink. One of the elements behind this change is that in the last few years, “Mexicans travelling abroad began to notice appreciation and taste for the drink [tequila], mainly in Europe.”

    We in Europe continue our delightful mission of bringing new heights of awareness and appreciation of Mexico’s treasure, tequila, to the discerning public. Here’s wishing you robust health and hearty enjoyment!

    Below please see a list of bars in London which promote tequila and a list of innovative cocktails made with tequila from London bartenders.

    Café Pacifico

    La Perla Bar

    Lab

    Match

    Lonsdale

    43 South Moulton

    Crazy Homies

    Green and Red (coming soon)

    Marmite Margarita

    From Peter Lewis and Jess Hewitt

    50ml Gran Centenario reposado

    35ml fresh lime juice

    25ml Cointreau

    1 level barspoon Marmite

    Combine first three ingredients in a mixing glass.

    Stir in Marmite.

    Strain into a Martini glass.

    Serve with one buttered and one unbuttered white bread toast (the buttered toast to be taken after each drink and then the unbuttered toast to cleanse the palate).

    Fuego Manzana

    From Danny Smith

    1 inch (2 cm) red chile pepper, chopped

    1 teaspoon sugar syrup

    1 ¾ oz (50ml) anejo tequila (Herradura)

    ¾ oz (25ml) cloudy apple juice

    ¾ oz (25ml) fresh lime juice

    ½ oz (15ml) pomme vert (apple liqueur)

    Place the chile pepper and sugar syrup in a mixing glass.

    Muddle (mash and combine) with the flat end of a bar spoon or the end of a rolling pin.

    Add the remaining ingredients in the order listed above.

    Fill with cubed ice and shake or stir well (at least 10 seconds).

    Double strain the drink into a chilled Martini glass with ice cubes.

    Garnish with a chile slice.

    Sweet Sage and Pine

    From Dre Mazzo and Henry Besant

    ½ thick slice of fresh pineapple

    1 teaspoon sugar syrup

    1 ¾ oz (50ml) reposado tequila (Herradura)

    ¾ oz (25ml) sage liqueur (see below)

    ½ oz (15ml) fresh lime juice

    Chop the pineapple in small chunks and place in a mixing glass.

    Add the sugar syrup and muddle (mash and combine).

    Add the remaining ingredients with ice.

    Double strain into Martini glass.

    Garnish with a sage leaf

    To make your own sage liqueur:

    Take one bunch fresh sage, 3 cups (750ml) eau-de-vie or 100-proof vodka and 1 cup (250ml) sugar syrup. Place the leaves in a large jug or bottle and add alcohol. Cover and leave in a warm place for eight days. Strain into a clean bottle, add sugar syrup, eal and gently shake. Alternately, you can simply muddle six fresh sage leves with 10 oz (30ml) triple sec and 1 teaspoon sugar syrup. Compliments ofMargarita Rocks by Andres Mazzo and Henry Besant.

    The Toronja Smash

    From Douglas Ankrah

    40ml Don Julio reposado

    10ml fresh lemon juice

    25ml fresh grapefruit juice

    5ml homemade rhubarb and ginger puree

    10ml Licor 43

    1.5 barspoons vanilla sugar

    Shake hard and fine strain into cocktail glass, garnish with 2 rhubarb sticks.

    El Corazon

    From Andrea Montague

    50ml Don Julio reposado

    25ml fresh squeezed lime juice

    2 barspoons Tommy’s sugar syrup

    5-7 pink peppercorns

    3 dried hibiscus flowers (gently crushed)

    Shake and strain into a cocktail glass, garnish with a dried hibiscus flower petal.

    Honey Pepper Margarita

    From Kai Weller

    50ml Don Julio reposado

    6 slices of fresh pineapple

    ½ fresh lime squeezed

    25ml orange blossom honey water (brand 50/50)

    10 grinds black pepper

    Shake and strain into a cocktail glass, garnish with a peppered pineapple chunk.


    By Tom Estes

    Phil Bayly

    Phil Bayly

    Phil Bayly has been involved in the growth of the Tequila Industry in Europe and Australia since 1980.

    Based in Sydney, Australia and owner of Café Pacifico Sydney, he has been recognized with various awards for his work with tequila including the first 'Distinctivo T' in the southern hemisphere in 2006.

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