Tequila has come from its place in the dirty badlands as a low class outcast to this relatively recent status as a high quality, highly versatile, exciting multi-imaged spirit. How has this come about and what are its developments?
Up until the 1980’s, most of the tequila on the market was of a “mass-produced” nature -make it as rapidly and consistently as possible. Generally speaking no one  was looking for quality, neither the producers nor the consumers. There were some notable exceptions, but they were few.
In 1983 the advent of Chinaco 100% blue agave tequila turned the tequila world on its head. This tequila brought attention to the category in a way that was new for most. It said, “tequila can be smooth, balanced, lovely to drink and still be exciting, adventuresome, and new.”
From Chinaco’s example, other producers continued with outstanding expressions of their own. Don Julio, Patrón, Tesoro, and Cuervo 1800 came out in the 1990’s. The public, mostly in the U.S. was taking notice, changing their tastes and buying patterns, and from that point on tequila would never be the same.
Having spoken to numerous tequileros (tequila producers) I have learned that the vast majority of them are endeavoring to make the highest quality products possible to attract and keep consumers in the worldwide taste arena. The trend continues with new high end tequilas appearing regularly.
The term boutique, or designer tequila is used for tequilas that are made to high standards, usually in limited quantities. They are packaged in attractively designed bottles and labels, are fantastic to drink and are often justifiably expensive. This is the new breed of tequilas that is leading the way to changing tequila’s image in the world of drinking.
The C.R.T., the Tequila Regulatory Council is the Mexican organization that is charged with maintaining high standards in the growing of agaves, (the raw material from which tequila is made), and in the total process of making tequila. This body has been in effect only a brief 12 years and is making impressive progress in raising quality. I have heard numerous times that the quality standards imposed on the tequila industry are more stringent than those on Cognac. This is a positive sign to the tequila consumer.
It is said  that “consumers are drinking less and drinking better (quality).” This may in general be true. What is apparent is that some brands have had stunning successes in the ultra premium (high quality) market. Grey Goose vodka and Patrón tequila are two such examples. Their influence, having reached this dizzying level of success, is profound. First, we see that there is a public that goes for these products in a mass way. This says that today’s drinkers will pay more for premium spirits and in my view, image. Secondly, spirits producers who see this achievement want to have some of the action themselves. This spirals the dynamics of the entire market upwards towards higher and higher quality and makes for powerfully changing times for spirits, particularly tequila.
Growth of worldwide tequila sales has been dramatic with the most significant gains occurring in the 100% blue agave tequila category. The other category, tequila, is allowed by Mexican law to contain up to as much as 49% “other sugars,” usually cane sugar. These are added to the agave sugars at fermentation time.
These two categories produce different tequilas for different tastes. Many people identify the 100% agave tequila as “better,” of higher quality. Most designer, boutique tequilas are in the 100% agave category.
Within the two categories stated above there are five classes of tequila. These are: blanco (unaged), oro (unaged, with coloring added), reposado (aged between 2 and 12 months), añejo (aged 12 to 36 months), super añejo (aged more than 36 months). The latter class was recently added in March of 2006 by the C.R.T. This addition shows the direction in which tequila consciousness is moving, toward premium , higher valued products.
It was earlier thought that tequila did not improve much with aging beyond five years. It is now agreed that tequilas with as much as seven years aging can produce complex, rich flavours. The key to this change has been the understanding that by using new oak barrels for aging , the tequila flavours have  been overpowered and its agave essence disguised. If pre-used barrels are used, ones in which the wood influence is lessened, the tequila will fare well with aging and not be overpowered. Depending on cellar conditions in Mexico, the loss by evaporation during the aging can be between 2 and as much as 6-7% per year. Multiply that by the years of aging and one can see how much of the tequila may be lost to the “angel’s share.” One can see from this ‘’loss’’ that aged tequilas are much dearer to produce.
As mentioned before, most growth is experienced in the 100% category and most especially in the reposado class. Reposado is perceived as a premium spirit because of its straw color from aging and its softened agave flavours. Reposado works well as a starter or beginner tequila for those who do not know tequila or those who have had a regrettable tequila experience. In the latter case, the reposado would be a “re-starter” tequila.
Currently there are some premium, very expensive tequilas on the market especially in the añejo class. At Café Pacifico and La Perla Bars we sell a tequila which costs us £600 per bottle. It is called Cuervo 1800 Colección. We sell more of this tequila in London than anyone else in the world. In recent times we have run out of Colección and can not get it at any price. Rare and expensive tequila [such as this one ] are good for tequila’s image.
Today’s bartenders seem to be especially attracted to tequila’s edgy, undiscovered side. It is a relatively new-to-the-market spirit which doesn’t have the stigma of being the older generation’s drink such as Cognac or Scotch. Of all the popular distillates, tequila is the one with the most “shadow side” appeal, shadow side being a Jungian term used to describe that which is denied and hidden from view. This gives it a particularly powerful attraction especially when considered along with alcohol’s sexual associations creating an even more “edgy” impression.
With its unique qualities and especially its image, tequila seems to be the spirit of the present and future. It has been burdened by a bad reputation for some decades and with this new generation of tequilas, this reputation is now changing. Tequila is earning more and more respect as the public have a different experience with these newer, higher quality tequilas. Not only is the Mexican Ambassador showing his appreciation of tequila’s arrival, but so is the discriminating drinking public at large.
Tom Estes 2006